Hey Everyone!
After a successful night of Route-Setting on Saturday, I got some sleep and planned to meet Matt the following evening to start the bouldering turnover! It was a beautiful day out, and without enough time to hit up Squamish we decided to do a training session on the outdoor wall at B5. We thought it might be cool to make a little time lapse of our session, so Matt brought a camera and did things on a computer I am incapable of doing!
After training we stripped all the problems in the centre of the wall and got to work setting 8 brand new ones!
Highlights from the first night are the Purple/Yellow V2, and the Green V9! The majority of the problems on this set are definitely set with a very “commercial” feel, lots of fun moves, the feet are a little forgiving and its more about pulling on holds then un-locking tricky sequences or getting your hips just right. The kind of problems you want to come climb after work on a hot day when your big life decision is whether you should drink beer or go bouldering.
Kyle Joined Matt and I on night two and got to work setting a really classy V1 (blue/white) as well as a brand new 5.10a with brand new holds in the back of the gym over the garage! Nice, Open moves, on good holds take you up that slightly overhanging section of wall that often only has one route 🙂
Thats right… I did say NEW HOLDS! I recently put in several good sized hold orders with several top companies, and we will see over 1200 top of the line holds entering our stock between now and November!!! The first order that showed up was from Atomik or as I refer to them as “My Jug Company” They make lots of great holds, but they make lots of amazing jugs, they are also a little easier on the budget then a few of my other favourite companies which allows us to order lots and lots of holds from them. Climbing gyms EAT jugs, especially steep gyms like B5, you always need more, and even if I ordered 5000 tomorrow we would still need more. This order of Red/Pink jugs will allow us to add more terrain in the “Building Block” grades and help us get more people exposed to climbing!
With new holds in toe, Matt and I got to work finishing up the bouldering on the centre wall. Adding another 7 problems to the mix, Plus Kyle’s V1, making that section of wall as packed with holds as it usually is 🙂
I climbed yesterday with my girlfriend and a few friends and was feeling pretty good about this new set, I had a lot of fun on what we put up and I feel like a lot of the problems are very “repeatable”. Highlights from day 2 are the Yellow/Green V6 and the Blue/Orange V4.
Check out the Beta Spoiler!
Before signing off I also want to let everyone know that due to the Youth Performance Camp and Performance Team Selection Camp happening at B5 next week the Left side of the bouldering wall, and the Cave area are going to be very “thin” for the next week! The problems however will be changing frequently and we will have a whole new set at the end of the weekend on both walls!
Thanks for Reading!
Base5 Setting 