Hey Everyone,
I finished writing the last post at about 3:30am on Saturday, so as you know it only really covered 2 nights of this weeks efforts.
Sunday night was fairly jam packed, I came in early to walk around and talk to some people and get their opinions on a few of the colours we were setting with that night – the shades of the Orange and Grey we used weren’t the best so I checked with a few of the members before moving forward with those routes.
Matt and Kyle arrived at the gym around 9 and after prepping our holds for the night we stripped the “less steep” Aka the “Right side” of the bouldering wall. We took down the two long blue volumes and replaced them a big triangle close to the ground, and another big one up at the top – we took the time to add a bunch of extra T-nuts to the volumes so we could have some better holds options.
The three of us teamed up and set 10 new problems V0-V7 with a continued emphasis on keeping the moves accessible to climbers of all heights. We also came to the conclusion that we were being a little harsh with the grading on some of the last sets so we tried to make this set a little more reasonable.
The first stand out problem is Matt’s new Orange/Black V7 – with a dynamic opening and subtle, technical ending this one is a crowd pleaser! Here is a beta spoiler if your curious..
…. That obviously didn’t go so well, but it was soo funny we decided just to roll with it and film a beta spoiler for another problem – Here is the Black and White V2 Matt set, this video is free from dry fires and is funny in absolutely no way.
Other problems I thought were special:
The Red/White V5 by Kyle:
Start with the foot on the volume, a tension-y foot swing leads you to a large red block, after that just stay on the flat edges to the top! Super fun, lots of flow and the right amount of “interesting”
The Green/Black V3 by Me:
I was pretty happy with this one, just a simple fun problem, all the feet are in the right places, all the holds are comfortable and the movement is varied – Do the second move using an “Inside Flag” if you want the extra style points and to save your energy matching your feet!
Sunday night also saw 2 fresh routes go up!
Kyle set A beauty 5.9 on the centre Auto-belay using an arsenal of light orange holds. This was the colour I was surveying the members about… I was worried it was too close to the neighbouring yellow routes bet everyone I talked to didn’t think it would be an issue. I personally don’t think it is a problem, but If you can’t tell the difference let us know and we will make sure not to use them near yellow routes again!
Selfie from a perfect no hands Knee Bar!
I also set another 5.11a on the Main Event (Thats right, there is three 11a/b routes on the steeps now!!) this grey route starts off with some technical face climbing on solid incut holds with lots of foot options – an un-usual press move into the “Ear” feature takes you on the steep section of the wall. Fun, “Open” moves on good holds will lead you to the anchors. If your courageous you should stop and enjoy a no hands rest by Knee-Barring the “Ear” – But, please… No Selfies like the one above, this would not be safe if the gym was open!
Matt and I both rolled in on Monday night as well to add a few more problems to the “Less Steep”. I was definitely psyched to see a big session on the new problems, and seeing the beta people were coming up with was super cool! Once the crowds cleared and the gym closed we got to work adding 5 new problems, A V0 and V1, two V3’s and a Tic-Tacky V7 with a “Granite” theme! It’s always harder setting the last few problems of a wall, Usually the hold selection is getting bare, and the wall is getting full – but I am actually pretty happy with how these turned out, plus the wall has enough holds on it for all the people who love making up problems!
Hope you guys enjoy all the new stuff! Let us know what you think on the “Feedback” Page!
Thanks for reading!
Base5 Setting 